The Wonderful Adventures of SNIFF

#Sidibouzid - Dec 17, one year on...

2011-12-17T10:58:00.000+01:00

I rarely write on this blog and lately I have not posted much at all. I will not make promises to amend that, because life is churning far too fast for me to be sure of keeping such a promise. But I would like to write a few lines of what we see in my cherished Middle East over the past year, and what better time to do so than the anniversary.

So, this is a tribute to unemployed university graduate fruit vendor Mohammed Bouazizi of Sidibouzid in Tunisia, whose frustration and anger was the spark of the Arab revolution of 2011. His action woke many and started a wave of change.

Many more have died since and I fear we have not seen the end of violence. But many many have also found voice and hope. I believe we can never go back to a day where it is said that Arab populations are politically passive or complacent.

This is also for Tawakol Karman, Nobel peace laureate, Alaa Abdel Fattah, Razan Ghazzawi, Ali Abduleman - just to mention but a few of those brave people whose names we have learned this year.

Change will continue to come, if in different timetables and ways in different countries.

At the regional level, inter-regional interaction has also sharpened and heightened.

Windows

2011-08-21T16:19:00.002+02:00

Two different windows (the lower one real and decorated, the upper one painted), from the Hagia Sofia.

Pillar!

2011-08-20T17:10:00.003+02:00

The architectural solidity of the Hagia Sofia, one of the earliest building supporting a dome (replicated in Istanbul first almost a thousand years later by Sinan in the Suleymaniyya) and having survived in an earthquake zone, leads me to believe that this amazing column has no important function. But it does sort of lead you to look twice and once again!

Decorations

2011-08-18T12:20:00.001+02:00

Every detail is really exquisitely worked.

More details

2011-08-17T12:15:00.005+02:00

4 different angels (? or what are they?) can now be seen in one of the ceiling domes - they must have been uncovered from whitewash in recent renovations because I cannot recall ever seeing them.

Mosaics in Hagia Sofia

2011-08-16T15:46:00.002+02:00

Some examples of the magnificent mosaics decorating the Hagia Sofia, really personifying the regal origins of the church.

The three top photos are all of mosaics in the upper gallery.

This is the Pantocrator, over the main imperial door from the side gallery to the hall.

Mary with her son, in the vault high above the altar.

In Hagia Sofia

2011-08-15T11:05:00.002+02:00

I think this was my first visit to Hagia Sofia without the central hall being full of construction equipment for renovations. Instead, it felt open, airy and light in a whole new way a - an amazing experience!

In the Topkapi

2011-08-11T08:06:00.003+02:00

Kösks and decorative fixtures (including the golden ramadan tent, overlooking the Golden Horn).

Mosaics from Topkapi harem

2011-08-10T22:32:00.004+02:00

Amazing Iznik tiles, all from inside the harem. Which is worth a visit not for its sensual connotations, but for its history and how it shows the social system and hierarchy of the palace. Highlighting both the role of women, the system of inheritance and ottoman slavery, it is a true eye-opener.

Looks at Hagia Sofia itself

2011-08-08T15:07:00.002+02:00

Some outside views of the Hagia Sofia, and of the Hagia Eirene behind it. Note how both are dedicated to concepts (Holy Wisdom and Holy Peace) and not saints, but still in the feminine.

Tombs and details

2011-08-07T13:29:00.003+02:00

A closer look at the tombs and kösks in the side courtyard.

Hagia Sofia courtyard

2011-08-06T13:17:00.003+02:00

For the first time ever, I saw the tomb's in the side courtyard of the Hagia Sofia, opening through a small grate to the side, around the corner from the main entrance. It gave a better view of the whole Sofia complex.

Istanbul bloom

2011-08-05T11:20:00.003+02:00

Istanbul in April treats its inhabitants and visitors to masses of tulips. In June, its mostly roses.

Sultanahmet mosque

2011-08-04T21:58:00.004+02:00

The "Blue" or Sultanhamet mosque is not my favourite, but due to it's central location probably the one most viewed by tourists. Lying opposite Hagia Sofia, but substantially less impressive, to my mind. However, here a few quite nice shots of it from different angles.

Bosphorus

2011-08-03T21:48:00.002+02:00

Some shots of the blue blue Bosphorus. A friend told us of seeing dolphins earlier the same week, from Ortaköy (which we did from Sarayburnu a few years ago) - it made me so happy! Check the last shot, Topkapi from the distance. The first few are from the mouth of the Golden Horn.

Cistern

2011-08-02T12:31:00.004+02:00

Back to Istanbul pics. I am always sceptical to visits in the cistern next to the Hagia Sofia, but am always sort of awed once there.

Tel Aviv in full summer bloom

2011-08-01T23:32:00.002+02:00

Sorry for the abruptness of non-blogging for the last month, there are still Istanbul photos to come. I have spent the time in Tel Aviv, and not offline (the sharpeyed reader can see almost daily link updates to the left, if slightly jumbled chronologically...) but with limited access to my own digital files. So now a peek at the summer bloom of Tel Aviv, before returning to June's Istanbul visit. More to come though, including from a brief visit to Jerusalem, which I once called home.

Suleymaniya

2011-07-01T11:29:00.003+02:00

Like the Tulun, the Suleymaniya gives me a sense of inner calm. The grand stillness permeates the whole structure.

Bosphorus Bridge

2011-06-30T19:48:00.002+02:00

Peaking out from behind the graceful Ortaköy mosque, resting on the waters.

Viewing Istanbul

2011-06-29T20:06:00.003+02:00

Looking out over the amazingly un-busy (for the day...), blue Bosphorus.

Shadowing Istanbul

2011-06-29T16:22:00.002+02:00

We spent last weekend in Istanbul with some friends - more to come on that!

Legendary Groppi's

2011-06-27T10:41:00.001+02:00

Another Cairo of the past.

Bits of life in old Cairo

2011-06-26T07:43:00.001+02:00

Just some last looks at what really fascinates me of old Cairo (and what I've tried to show in the last few posts) - life going on among antiquities, shopping, animals, people, and eveything else. It's a hard life, and that probably hasn't changed much, though.

Cairo street dogs!

2011-06-25T10:41:00.001+02:00

and a horse.

And other foodstuffs...

2011-06-24T07:20:00.001+02:00

including live ones... how does one deal with it at home, I always wonder? Or doesn't one?

Fruit vendors

2011-06-23T06:35:00.001+02:00

Seeling fruit in the streets of old Cairo - oh yes, topped with the fluffy pink teddybears, too!

Leaving Tulun

2011-06-22T10:31:00.002+02:00

And heading towards Bab Zuwayla on foot.

Inside Tulun

2011-06-21T14:55:00.002+02:00

A friend characterized the Tulun as "not making out to be anything it's not" - I couldn't agree more. It's not fancy, but the austeroty really speaks to me.

Tulun

2011-06-20T20:08:00.005+02:00

I never get tired of the Tulun. The austerity and linear feel of it really gets to me, along with the calm feeling it inspires.

Through the streets towards Tulun

2011-06-12T11:45:00.002+02:00

Walking through the streets of old Cairo - approaching Tulun. An experience in itself, and more to come!

(and this post is kind of historical too - my 1500th ever on this blog!)

Interiors

2011-06-05T13:26:00.003+02:00

Some last interior details from the Mameluke city palace of Amir Taz.

Ceilings

2011-06-04T11:04:00.001+02:00

Magnificent work on the loggia ceiling.

Loggia

2011-06-01T06:41:00.002+02:00

Some views of the loggia overlooking the courtyard and the stairs.

Inside Amir Taz Palace

2011-05-31T08:37:00.001+02:00

Details from yard and the stables - like the pools.

Bathroom ceiling

2011-05-30T07:22:00.001+02:00

The bathroom has an amazing coloured-glass ceiling.

Water wheel and other appliances

2011-05-29T20:12:00.002+02:00

The palace was kitted with water, brought up and distributed by an inner water wheel, and with what must have been a fairly well-equipped bathroom facility at the time!

Amir Taz

2011-05-24T21:28:00.002+02:00

Amir Taz is a beautifully renovated Mamluk city palace, now opened as a museum.

Roads of Arabia

2011-05-22T22:24:00.003+02:00

A short weekend visit to St Petersburg this weekend included getting lost in the Hermitage - but on the plus-side was that I managed to sneak a peek at the "Roads of Arabia"-exhibition, featuring pre-Islamic archaelogical finds from Nabatean and other sites in the Arabian peninsula!

Early summer in Stockholm!

2011-05-16T20:26:00.001+02:00

Lilacs, soon in bloom in our backyard! The deep purple ones are called Persian lilacs in Swedish, btw.

#Jan 25 - talking about Egypt

2011-05-15T16:55:00.003+02:00

Listen to Swedish journalist Bitte Hammargren in a 30minute interview on Egypt and the Arab world in 2011.

Off to Amir Taz!

2011-05-15T13:11:00.002+02:00

Walking through really old residential districts of Cairo to the fairly recent Mamluk palace museum of Amir Taz (avid reader's of this blog have visited before!).

Mihrab!

2011-05-13T20:07:00.001+02:00

Prayers are led and texts read from up front.

Vaults

2011-05-13T06:06:00.002+02:00

Inside doors and vaults.

Carpets and lamps

2011-05-12T19:04:00.003+02:00

I really cannot convey the detail of the pieces - note the marks in the carpet, meant to guide the believers in lining up for prayer.

Sultan Hassan courtyard

2011-05-12T09:01:00.002+02:00

Each door leads to a school specialized in a one of the sunni law-school traditions, all taught at the madrasa.

Inside Sultan Hassan

2011-05-11T20:59:00.002+02:00

Very traditional setting with centred ablution fountain in courtyard, but exquisite style!

Current reading

2011-05-11T20:58:00.001+02:00

I have only just started, but the subject is truly fascinating.

Outside details of Sultan Hassan

2011-05-09T06:09:00.001+02:00

Outside and around the mosque - soon we get to peek in again!

More Sultan Hassan

2011-05-08T21:07:00.002+02:00

Entering Sultan Hassan, the porch and doorway are magnificent!

Press Freedom Day

2011-05-03T21:00:00.004+02:00

Today is World Press Freedom day - and to honour it I will share some relevant and timely links with you.

Freedom House's net freedom report

RSF report on Turkey

RSF's index of press freedom predators

and Tunisian Nawaat have declined an e-freedom prize

Press Freedom Prize

2011-05-02T21:36:00.003+02:00

Tomorrow, the Swedish section of Reporters without Borders (Reportrar utan gränser) will give the annual press freedom prize to Wael Ghoneim!

Entering Sultan Hassan

2011-04-25T13:43:00.003+02:00

The entrance really feels like a fortress, with angled corridors and doors to deter. And I love the lamps!

Sultan Hassan!

2011-04-24T11:14:00.002+02:00

Magnificent, almost fortress-like - flanked by the more modern Rifaiyye.

Sultan Hassan - the other side

2011-04-23T11:02:00.003+02:00

The park on the backside, towards the residential district of old Cairo surrounding it, is closed off from the street nowadays...

Outside Sultan Hassan

2011-04-22T18:21:00.002+02:00

Back below the Citadel, outside Sultan Hassan's madrasa.

Travel favourites

2011-04-20T10:37:00.001+02:00

I believe IB Tauris are republishing Freya Stark's travel books of the Middle East - am currently reading Baghdad Skecthes for the first time, after having refound her Yemen books last year (for which I am very happy). Truly recommended!

Amr ibn al-'Aas

2011-04-19T19:52:00.001+02:00

Amr ibn al-'Aas is the site of the oldest mosque in Egypt, just north of the Coptic Cairo. Few traces of the original structure remain though.

More xmas

2011-04-19T08:18:00.001+02:00

Also the other churches we visited were geared up for Christmas.

Street signs

2011-04-18T17:14:00.000+02:00

Walking through Coptic Cairo

2011-04-18T07:11:00.002+02:00

A distinct district, with churches and vaults and caves.

Lamps and details

2011-04-17T19:57:00.000+02:00

Also inside the Mu'allaqa.

The Hanging Church

2011-04-17T14:53:00.002+02:00

Inside the Mu'allaqa, in so-called Coptic Cairo. It is quite dark, though.

Xmas bling

2011-04-16T21:14:00.003+02:00

All from a visit to the Hanging Church, Al-Mu'allaqa, next to Mar Girgis metro station in southern Cairo, just preceding the Coptic Christmas.

More Mu'izz

2011-04-15T22:33:00.005+02:00

A last look at Al-Mu'izz.

Amazing

2011-04-13T07:48:00.000+02:00

So much to see along the street, in the amazing light.

Along the street

2011-04-12T22:45:00.000+02:00

Domes and wall and minarets...

In Shari' Al-Mu'izz!

2011-04-12T08:23:00.000+02:00

Shari' al-Mu'izz has a magical atmosphere in the dusk!

Last look

2011-04-11T16:19:00.000+02:00

And a last look at the Muhammad Ali mosque, before leaving the Citadel.

Around the mosque

2011-04-11T10:16:00.000+02:00

Some views of the surrounding terraces

Inside Muhammad Ali mosque

2011-04-10T22:10:00.003+02:00

Interior pics of the mosque, including inside of the dome and the prayer carpet.

More Cairo

2011-04-05T09:18:00.000+02:00

Amazing mixtures of urban texture.

Cairo views

2011-04-04T16:14:00.000+02:00

I never get tired of looking at this.

Sultan Hassan

2011-04-04T06:08:00.000+02:00

Looking out from the Citadel, the view of the city is amazing. Sultan Hassan's madrasa just below, is a favourite of mine, with Rifa'yi mosque next door.

Clock-tower

2011-04-03T17:57:00.004+02:00

I think all have heard the unfortunate story of the giftexchange between the Egyptian king Muhammad Ali and French Louis-Philippe - who sent a clock in exchange for an obelisk. The obelisk dorns Place de la Concorde in Paris, while the clock, in the courtyard of the Muhammad Ali mosque has never worked.

Quick book-release

2011-04-03T17:54:00.002+02:00

I'll advertise for the release tomorrow of a newly written book on the Egyptian revolution.

Well-shaft

2011-04-01T06:46:00.000+02:00

I tried taking photos down the black wellshaft in the courtyard, not daring to look straight down, but the camera wasn't too cooperative trying to focus down into the darkness...

Courtyard

2011-03-31T16:41:00.000+02:00

Muhammad Ali mosque - in the courtyard.

Muhammad Ali mosque

2011-03-31T07:38:00.001+02:00

Silhouette views of the Muhammad Ali or Alabaster mosque.

Oriental?

2011-03-30T15:31:00.000+02:00

Or catering to all tourists taste?

The bush

2011-03-30T08:28:00.000+02:00

Well-pruned bushes, for all of you who read Arabic...

Cairo citadel

2011-03-29T20:26:00.001+02:00

Inside views of the Cairo citadel.

Muqattam

2011-03-27T08:15:00.000+02:00

The Citadel (where we are going taking these photos) certainly overlooks Cairo, but the Muqattam escarpment has perhaps an even better overview?

Station

2011-03-26T22:48:00.000+01:00

The constructionwork going on in Cairo's Mahattat Ramsis was indescribable, so coming to Mahattat Masr in Alexandria was an experience of wonderful calm!

Buildings in Alex

2011-03-26T19:41:00.002+01:00

Walking through downtown Alexandria.

Alexandria fort

2011-03-25T08:53:00.000+01:00

On the remains of one of the wonders of the ancient world, the Pharos lighthouse, lies the Qaitbey fort, overlooking Alexandria harbour.

Pyramids awaiting the storm

2011-03-24T19:52:00.002+01:00

Maybe the backdrop should have been seen as ominous? We certainly didn't see the signs. And the basic energy is positive.

Reading

2011-03-23T23:33:00.003+01:00

I recently came over a copy of this book, on Middle East family monarchies and power structures - very interesting in the current times. We shall see how well any analysis has lasted and how relevant it feels in the Arab spring of 2011.

Cairo views

2011-03-22T08:51:00.000+01:00

Cairo spreads in the distance, all the way to the Muqattam escarpment.

Pyramids and Cairo!

2011-03-21T20:36:00.002+01:00

One really is on the edges of the city. The urban area is a true megacity and the line separating city from desert is razorsharp.

More pyramids, and sphinx!

2011-03-21T09:12:00.001+01:00

Well, see and enjoy - one of the remaining wonders of the world!

Giza pyramids

2011-03-20T20:56:00.003+01:00

I always hear this song... playing in my head - on power and monuments...

Anyway, here they are! The pyramid perfection. We spent our vacation with an expert too, guiding us through all the available knowledge

Camels of fame

2011-03-20T08:22:00.000+01:00

The camels and their keepers became famous after these shots were taken, and to what extent they were paid and sent or if their actions was one of desperation with lost income may be disputed. Anyway, as part of the tourist scene in Giza theye are essential and illustrate at a deeper level the deep layers of dependence on tourist income generation even without formal employment.

Surrounding the sphinx

2011-03-19T15:19:00.001+01:00

Backing a step, there is a sort of complex by the sphinx too.

Lighting

2011-03-18T22:54:00.001+01:00

I am frequently fascinated by the caapcity of my camera and it rarely has to do with pixels and detail - but rather, as in this shot, with absorption of light.

Inside the tomb

2011-03-18T22:49:00.002+01:00

Details from inside the tomb, walls, basins and holes.

Apology

2011-03-17T21:54:00.003+01:00

My bloggin habits are really erratic these days, and not for lack of photos to show, or future plans giving more photos. But somehow, with all going on, it seems frivolous and takes time I don't have, Be patient, I'm coming back. In the meantime, hope and act for the Arab spring - so much positive energy as potential for change is around for grabs. But right now, the potential looks more subdued and thwarted.

Tomb

2011-03-17T20:53:00.003+01:00

Next to the sphinx is a smaller tomb, of a courtier or a minister or priest, I would guess.

The tail of the Sphinx...

2011-02-27T11:33:00.000+01:00

The coolest part of the sphinx I had never seen before up close - the tail! Can't you almost see it twitching? Perhaps it was covered with construction before?

Sphinx complex

2011-02-26T10:29:00.000+01:00

Inside the complex surrounding the sphinx!

Mr Sphinx

2011-02-25T10:01:00.000+01:00

A really cool guy. In Arabic he is Abu al-Houl, the Father of Ghosts.